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The material we use most

Why cellulose, and when it is the wrong choice.

Recycled paper fiber, borate-treated, blown to a settled depth. It is dense, it fills around obstructions, and it holds up in a January cold snap. It is not right for every job — here is where the line is.

What it actually is

Cellulose insulation is recycled paper fiber — around 85% post-consumer newsprint — ground down and treated with borate mineral salts. The borates do two jobs: they give the material a Class I fire rating, and they make it unappealing to insects and rodents.

It arrives compressed in bales, goes through a machine that fluffs and meters it, and gets blown through a hose into your attic. Nothing about it is exotic. It has been installed in American homes for decades.

The numbers that matter

About R-3.1 per inch, settled. Manufacturer sheets quote a more optimistic 3.2 to 3.8, but 3.1 is what we design to because it is what we actually measure once the material has settled. To hit the R-49 that Climate Zone 5 calls for, you are looking at 16 inches of settled material — less if you are topping up over existing insulation that is still doing its job.

Density is the real argument. Cellulose installs at roughly 1.5 to 1.6 pounds per cubic foot on an attic floor, noticeably denser than loose-fill fiberglass. That density is why it fills tight around wiring, junction boxes and irregular framing rather than bridging over them and leaving a void. Voids are where attics lose their rated performance.

Where it beats fiberglass, honestly

The advantage that matters in Michigan shows up on the coldest nights. When the temperature difference across a loose, low-density insulation layer gets extreme, air can begin to move within the insulation itself — warm air rising through it, cold air sinking, a slow convective loop that carries heat past the material rather than through it. Low-density loose-fill fiberglass is more susceptible to this than denser cellulose.

The practical translation: two attics rated at the same R-value can perform differently at 5°F. The denser one holds up better. In a climate where the coldest week of the year is exactly when you care most, that is not an academic distinction.

Cellulose also does a better job around obstructions. An attic floor is not a clean rectangle — it has wires, boxes, bracing, and framing that was nailed together by somebody in 1954 who was not thinking about your energy bill. A dense blown material conforms to that. Batts have to be cut around it, and usually are not cut well.

Low-density loose fill allows air to convect within the layer Low density Air can loop inside the layer Heat rides the loop past the insulation
Dense-packed cellulose resists convection Cellulose density Packed tight enough to stop it Holds its rated performance at 5°F
Two attics rated at the same R-value can perform differently on the coldest night of the year. Density is why.

Where fiberglass is the right call

We are not material partisans, and it would be easy to write this page as though cellulose wins everywhere. It does not.

  • Open new-construction walls. Batts in clean, accessible stud bays are fast, cheap and perfectly effective. See new construction work.
  • Weight-sensitive ceilings. Cellulose is heavier. On an old plaster ceiling in questionable condition, that occasionally matters and needs a look before we load it up.
  • Where a homeowner has a strong preference. It is your house. If you want fiberglass and it will perform adequately for your situation, we will install fiberglass and not make it weird.

What good installation looks like

The material is roughly half the outcome. The rest is the crew.

Settled depth, not initial depth. Cellulose fluffs up coming out of the hose and settles over the following weeks. Installing to 15 inches on day one and calling it R-49 is how you end up with R-42 by spring. We install past the target so the settled result is what you paid for.

Depth markers. We staple ruler cards to the trusses. You can go up with a flashlight in two years and verify what is there. Very few installers do this, and it is the cheapest accountability there is.

Baffles at the eaves. Blowing deep insulation toward the edge of an attic without baffles buries the soffit vents. The attic stops breathing, moisture builds under the roof deck, and you have traded a heating problem for a rot problem.

Air sealing first. Covered in detail on the attic insulation page, and it is the step that separates a job that works from a job that looks finished.

The environmental note, without the sermon

Cellulose is made from paper that would otherwise be waste, and it takes substantially less energy to manufacture than fiberglass or foam. If that matters to you, it is a genuine point in its favor. If it does not, the performance argument above stands on its own — we mention it because it is true, not because it is the reason to buy.

Common questions

Is cellulose better than fiberglass?

For a Michigan attic floor, usually yes — it is denser, it fills around obstructions instead of leaving gaps, and it holds its performance better in deep cold. But fiberglass is not a bad product. Batts are the right answer in open new-construction walls, and loose-fill fiberglass is lighter, which occasionally matters on a marginal ceiling. Anyone who tells you one material wins every time is selling, not advising.

Is cellulose a fire risk? It is made of paper.

It is treated with borates, which are the same class of mineral salts used as flame retardants elsewhere, and it carries a Class I fire rating. In practice treated cellulose chars and resists flame spread rather than feeding it. The borate treatment also makes it inhospitable to insects and rodents.

Does cellulose settle? Am I losing R-value over time?

It settles roughly 10 to 20 percent, and then it stops. This is normal and predictable, which is why we install to a settled design depth rather than an initial depth. The R-value you were quoted is the R-value you have after settling. An installer who blows to the pretty number on day one and walks away is leaving you short.

What about moisture? Will wet cellulose ruin my attic?

Cellulose can absorb and release moisture without losing structure, which is an advantage in normal humidity swings. What it cannot survive is a genuine water source — a roof leak or a bath fan venting into the attic instead of outside. We check for both before installing, because putting new material over an active leak wastes your money.

Is it dusty? Will it get into my house?

There is dust during installation — that is unavoidable with any blown product. We seal the work area, run the hose through a controlled opening, and vacuum the route on the way out. Once it is settled behind a sealed ceiling plane, it stays where we put it.

Related work

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